Chandon

First published in the Benicia Herald on Septmeber 21, 2008.

Last weekend, I finally made a stop at Chandon in Yountville. If you're like me, you see the big signs off the highway and think about stopping from time to time, but ultimately, end up passing by on the way to some other place. The sign that declares "Oysters" has always taunted me, and I decided it just wasn't going to escape my attention for one more trip.

Every Friday - Sunday, the winery offers "Bubbles and Oysters." Now, I am a fool for oysters. I had to check this out and see just how it works.

Once you arrive at Chandon, head upstairs to the tasting bar and order some bubbly. Your server there can also take your order for oysters, served on the half shell. For a half dozen, expect to pay $18; $30 for a dozen. This may sound a bit steep, but oh, the oysters are worth it.

The oysters are served up by Michael Watchorn, founder of the Hog Island Oyster Company. He stands out on the patio, knife in hand, shucking the little shells open and filling plates of orders. As Chandon tends to be a bit on the fancy side (most of the patrons are wearing a little nicer clothes than the average jeans and t-shirt), Watchorn is easy to spot as more down to earth in his ballcap. Moreover, the guy is really nice and generally appreciative of any conversation that is above, "Are my oysters ready yet?"

As well, Watchorn comes with all the toppings you need - tobasco, lemon and better yet "hog wash." The hog wash is some blend involving vinegar and cilantro that was delish on my dozen. I highly recommend it.

As for the bubbly, I decided to try a prestige tasting, featuring three samples plus a logo flute for $16. My host at the tasting bar assured me that the etoile selections, which made up two of my three pours, would go well with my shellfish. First I tried the etoile Brut, which had a great aroma. It smelled of almonds and honey. Yummy! On the palate, I really tasted the soft creamy citrus flavor. My taste left me excited for my second taste.

Next up was the etoile Rose, which, in my opinion, was even better. The flavors were much more muddled and complex, and presented a deeper mystery for me to solve. I took in the scents of deep red fruits like plum and cherry on the nose, and thought they transformed well in my mouth.

But I'll be honest. The sparkling wine was great and I am glad I got some samples, but they didn't hold a candle to the oysters. Make sure to visit on a day when Watchorn is there. You'll see how it's easy to lose enthusiasm for the wine when the oysters are so amazing.

The Chandon tasting room is located at One California Road, Yountville. For more on their wines and the winery, visit www.chandon.com or call 1-888-242-6366