Summer White Wines

First published in the Benicia Herald on September 7, 2008.

I so enjoyed sipping on the cool Sauvignon Blanc I picked up last week, I thought maybe I'd have a little fun with summer wines in my column this week. After all, although it is hard to image, our warm weather days are numbered, and soon winos everywhere will be warming their bellies with deep reds. The crisp, cool whites will seem as uninviting as a popsicle in a snow storm (okay, not quite, but you still get my point).

Mainly, this altered format gives me the opportunity to pay tribute to my absolute favorite summer wine. The 2005 Moscato d'Asti produced by Bonny Doon Vineyards. This wine is a delight. It is my go-to for any really special celebration in the warm months, as it's balanced flavor cannot be beat. Now, I know that many wine lovers are skeptical of sweet grape varietals like the moscato bianco, but the good folks at Bonny Doon were careful not to make their moscato too saccharine. The wine is a white, with a playful fizz to it that puts a little tickle on your tongue as is spills into your mouth. The sweetness that fills the flavor is reminiscent of a light juice more than a sugar cube. And on a hot day, I have been known to throw back a few glasses like the stuff was some kind of magically-refreshing ice water. Lucky for me, moscatos are pretty low in alcohol content - usually hovering around 11 percent - and so they are also a pretty safe bet when bringing wine to a hostess who doesn't drink much.

I will admit, the Bonny Doon Moscato d'Asti was a wine club exclusive, and even as a longtime member of the club, I am having difficulty getting more bottles, so don't be surprised if you can't get your hands on one. I will say, V. Sattui's 2007 Moscato Frizzante, although sweeter, is a comparable alternative for around $20 per bottle. As well, Lone Madrone winery in Paso Robles makes a equally delightful wine called Sweet Cheeks, made with the Viognier varietal.