Whitehall Lane

This column was first published in the Benicia Herald on August 3, 2008

I may not look like I've got money to spend on nice bottles of wine, but my credit card statements beg to differ. I belong to two wine clubs and I have no problem pulling out my friend Mr. Visa if a particular vintage strikes my fancy. But I am far from a wine snob. Wine snobs, and snobby wines, are not for me.

When I pulled into the Del Dotto Vineyards in St. Helena, I didn't realize I had just pulled into one of these places. The sign on the road boasted cave tours and great tasting wine, and so I figured it was worth a stop. I should have known what I was in for as soon as I got back by the parking. Directly adjacent to the front doors was space marked for "limos only."

Once my crew and I made it past the grand fountain at the entrance, we were abruptly told that we were not welcome to taste, as the winery only accepts visitors by appointment. We looked past the receptionist at the Docker-clad tasters behind her, dwarfed by the large, marble columns and over-the-top castle-esque decor, and noted the room was no where near filled. Again, we asked if we could make an on-the-spot appointment or maybe squeeze in for a cave tour, and we were turned away.

Disgruntled, we left from there and made our way over to the Whitehall Lane Winery & Vineyards just a short drive away. The tasting room was inviting - with plenty of space for us at the counter and a smiling, warm face greeting us as we approached. The decor was simple, and much more our speed. The crisp '07 Sauvignon Blanc we tasted first helped us to calm down and forget about the unwelcoming experience just before. We were quick to warm up to the Whitehall staff.

Whitehall Lane was founded in 1979 but the history of the soil cultivation dates back two centuries. In the mid 1800's, Napa Valley settlers were drawn to the deep, loamy soils and ideal climate, planting high quality grape vines at the Whitehall Lane Winery site. A barn constructed in the early 1900's for equipment storage is still used today. In 1979, two brothers started the winery and directed their winemaking efforts successfully to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. They named the winery after the road that runs along the south border of the property, Whitehall Lane.

In 1993, the Leonardini Family of San Francisco took control of the Whitehall Lane estate. They updated the winemaking and instituted a new barrel-aging program. The quailty of the vines is evident in the flavors that come from the grapes grown here.

But to discuss the wines I tasted at Whitehall would be to get back to my favorite, Cabernet Sauvignon. Of five pours, two were of this variety - and they were amazing. First up was the '05 Napa Valley Cab - the recipient of four stars from the Quarterly Review of Wines and a 2007 bronze winner at the Decanter World Wine Awards. I absolutely fell for this wine when I lifted the glass. The aroma was berry-filled and sweet. The finish was smooth and simply a delight. There was no way I was leaving without a bottle in hand. Mr. Visa was good for the $40.But the star of the Whitehall line-up is the '04 Silver Anniversary Napa Valley Reserve Cabernet. This may be a $75 bottle, but every drop is worth it. The flavor is mature and oaky. It has a creamy vanilla undertone to it and velvety tannins keep it balanced. It is the kind of red best saved for a really special dinner with premium cuts of red meat. It seems the judges for Wine spectator agreed - bestowing 92 points (out of 100) on the vintage - a true mark of great vino.

Two of my companions purchased bottles of the Anniversary vintage. I plan on helping them get through those bottles in the near future.

To learn more about Whitehall Lane Winery and Vineyards, visit www.whitehalllane.com or stop by the tasting room at 1563 St. Helena Hwy, St. Helena.