V. Sattui

First published in the Benicia Herald on August 10, 2008

Last month's news about the passing of California State Senate Bill AB 2004, which made it legal to drink wine in winery picnic areas, got me thinking about one of the top picnic sites in the Napa Valley, V. Sattui Winery.

The last time I had been to the winery was during the winter a few years ago. I have fond memories of the grounds, where my family shared a picnic with my grandmother only months before she passed away. We had purchased an array of cheese, wine and other picnic fare from the deli adjacent to the tasting room and settled at one of the tables outside for lunch one of the days we spent wine tasting in the region. It was the final vacation my family spent together with my grandmother before she became terminally ill and I carry nothing but fond memories about that getaway.

I should point out that this trip was in January of 2001, and I was still a few months shy of my 21st birthday, so I could not taste at any of the places we visited. My parents and extended family, though, let me have sips from their glasses in what I suppose was an effort to keep me included (although, to be fair, I probably did a lot of whining about wanting wine as well).

V. Sattui stood out as one of my favorite spots that trip. When I read the news about the laws changing to allow patrons to drink bottles on Winery picnic grounds, I set out to V. Sattui to see what had changed for them. According to the staff at the winery, nothing much. Somehow, the winery claims, they had the right to allow their patrons to drink on their picnic grounds all along (I still haven't figured out exactly how that worked). Anyway, I figured that since I was there already, I might as well lift a glass and do some tasting.

At V. Sattui, patrons can choose to sample from the regular selections for $5 or spring for the reserve tasting for $10. I decided on going the reserve tasting route. After all, it was a beautiful day and I was happy to be in the wine country.

Quickly, my overall mood began to change. It was a Saturday and the winery was more crowded than I could have ever imagined. The tasting bar was packed - and our pourer was friendly, which meant there were long periods between pours. I was trying to be responsible and so I was taking small sips and pouring out most of my samples so I could stay sober to drive. I had to fight to get to the pour bucket after each taste. This became annoying. I don't mind sharing, but with the number of patrons crowded around the bar, a few more pitchers on hand would have been nice.

But what really matters is the wine. I chose six wines from a list of about 10 that I really wanted to sample. Sadly, I was only impressed with one, the dessert Madeira that I tasted last. Winery Vice President Robert O'Malley, who had taken over for the woman who had originally been serving us, described it as "great after dinner when the dishes are done." I agreed. Its sweetness and layers of flavor is partially due to the fact that every year a portion of the starter created over 120 years ago is added to make the freshest batch. According to V. Sattui, this Solara, fortified with brandy, is one of the oldest in the U.S. It comes in a short, stout bottle, sealed with red wax, reminiscent of the rum bottles I remember from Disneyland's Pirates of the Caribbean ride. I brought home a couple of the $45 bottles for my collection. Having popped one open after a great dinner, and after finishing up the dishes, I agree with O'Malley. The Madeira is divine.

V. Sattui Winery is located at 1111 White Lane at Highway 29 in St. Helena. Check them out online at www.vsattui.com.