Saturday, July 16, 2011

Harvest Wrap-Up - Judd's Hill

This article was originally published in the Benicia Herald on November 9, 2008.

The first stop on my day of celebrating the harvest at some of Napa's hidden gems was Judd's Hill Winery. I held off telling you about this spot only to save one of the most interesting tasting experiences of the day, and most unique experiences I've ever had, for last.

Upon arriving at Judd's hill a few weeks ago, guests were encouraged to stop by the outdoor tasting station before heading in for the real deal. At the small outdoor bar, our hostess was pouring three different tastes of Petit Sirah from the 2008 harvest. The three tastes were all different presses - one a free run of juice, the second a light press, and the third a heavy press.

After grapes are fermented, they go into the press. Here, the winemaker decides how much pressure to apply and how to blend juice extracted at different pressures.

When tasting the different "press-cuts," it became very obvious how different the flavor of one grape can be. The more pressure that was applied to the grapes, the sweeter the wine. Our hostess explained that the increase in pressure also means more tannins in the bottle.

It was really educational for me, being an aspect of wine-making that I had scarcely given a passing thought. It is an art to determine the right mix of press-cuts to use in each vintage, and to make it even more complex, these blends vary greatly depending on the varietal. I guess I'll have to research that stuff more before I decide to toss my journalism career aside for a life as a master winemaker!

As for the regular tasting, the first pour was a sample of the 2005 Old Vine Petit Sirah - made from the fruit of the same vines as the press-cuts we sampled outside. The wine smelled wonderful - a blend of cherry fruit with a light oak that made my mouth water. On the palate, the grappa was acidic and tart, with lots of tannins. It wasn't exactly my favorite.

I was much happier with the 2004 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. My friend Jen immediately pointed out the campfire-marshmallow smell. It was smokey in that way, and complex in that I also detected raspberry fruits mixed with florals and pepper. Once the wine hit my taste buds, I was happy. I tasted fruit and smoke and everything else promised by my nose.

I think that the complex flavor in this particular wine is obtained by aging the wine in nine-month-old Chardonnay barrels. The reuse of the French oak keeps the oaky flavor down as to allow the other flavors to come through as well. The result is a highly recommended bottle.

If you decide to go to Judd's Hill and taste for yourself, the tasting room is located at 2332 Silverado Trail, Napa. Check them out online at www.juddshill.com.



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